Fitting a Chisel Handle | Paul Sellers

19 thoughts on “Fitting a Chisel Handle | Paul Sellers”

  • Mr.Seller, my highest respect to you and thank you for sharing the wealth of information and keepimg forgotten trades alive… I also like to express that your natural teaching skills are very rear. As far this vid I like that you expressed the SAFETY part, many don't. … As far your creative drill press approach my recommendations would be to clamp 2×4 to the table and use that as guide to stay straight when drilling or maybe eveb from both sides. … otherwise amazing video. FYI to other folks that are interested in woodworking get his newest book it is loaded with great tips like this vid..

  • Paul you could use a knife makers vice for the chisel to keep it safe and to keep you safe. Love the videos, I have learned quite a bit watching.

  • If you turned this on the lathe would you not have drilled it on the lathe. That way it would have been centred?

  • Loose handles in saws. Need to do a substantial rip today, and am going to fix the wiggly handle first. Not fining any videos to help. I suppose no one cares, but it drives me bonkers. I suppose wood shrinkage makes it happen, and undersized fasteners. I'll jam something in there to stop it.

  • drill the blank prior to turning and fitting the tang. It will then self center. A quicker more efficient way of doing it by experience IMHO

  • I turned a chisel handle this afternoon before watching this. I expected a problem drilling out for the tang. So I was very interested in your way of doing it. I think a correctly tapered reamer would simplify matters. I have a metal lathe and turned it on that. I gripped the head in a four jaw chuck and drilled the tail with increasing sized drills the same as you. That meant the hole was centred. The best woodworking solution would be to fit a four jaw chuck on the head of the woodworking lathe rather than the drive pin. I actually use my metal lathe as much as my wood lathe for shaping wood! I really ought to buy a chuck for my wood lathe. I also need to find my tail stock with a hole in the middle. I find all of your videos informative and pleasant to watch and very down to earth. I remember using friction polish years ago. I never thought of doing the same with shellac. I used Danish oil this time.

  • Thanks again Paul..
    I found an old split handle that was great grandpa's & glued it up with titebond & just fit it to a huge file that I use quite a bit.. I have dozens of files that now have golf ball handles.

  • There's another potential hazard here besides cutting yourself with the chisel blade. If you blow into a blind drilled hole to clear debris (11:27), close your eyes as you do so, especially if you don't wear glasses. I once spent an uncomfortable evening with an eye full of sawdust as a result of failing to do this. I guess there's a reason it's called a 'blind' hole! 🙂

  • Mr. Sellers..just wanted to let u know that I only started watching watching your vids over the past few days…WOW, have I been missing out on some good stuff. You sir, are a true craftsman. Your precision, knowledge and patience are things I only wish I had. The calm tone of your voice amazes me. You are indeed an inspiration to anyone who enjoys woodworking, especially a beginner like myself. You seem to take everything in stride even though you run into an occasional glitch…Watching you work is a true honor and pleasure as I see your creations come to fruition. I've learned many things in just these few days and for that I say "Thank You, Sir". Liked and subscribed.

  • I have a wonderful hundred year old set [12pcs] of Ruhl & Sons firmer chisels with socket handles.   Many of them are in need of new handles.    Would love to see your technique for getting the best fit to the shanks.

  • Nice work Paul, Thank You for sharing.
    By what means do you acquire the ferrules?
    And what is the inside diameter? Thank You

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